This is the only visible change to the Ranger dash cluster.  The small indicator panel to the left of the Radio.  There are electrical and electronic changes that you cannot see, but must be done in order to provide driver information.  The added display is used to monitor pack health (SOH) and remaining range (SOC).
    In the rectangle below the fuel and temp gauges are lighted icons.  Some of these are not used anymore.  For instance the Ranger notices right away that its engine is gone and starts complaining about it.  These no longer needed ICONS are eliminated in a few simple steps, as are other control connections.

    This is your dash fuse block and smart distribution center.  If it happens in the cabin or on the dash cluster it probably comes in through here.  If you were to zoom in to the wire clusters you would soon see that there is not a one of them marked "check engine light wire".  They are however uniquely marked with color combinations.  The wire has a primary solid color, and then in some cases a stripe or band added.  Each wire is unique.  So if you know the code, you can do anything.

    This is your primary fuse and control center in the engine compartment, located just ahead of your master brake cylinder.  It handles the higher level thinking, such as whether to let your truck start or not.
    To give you a good example of a change you will make in the conversion, we have to change a function from ICE, to EV.
    There is a pre-charge function in the fuel delivery system that occurs when the ignition switch goes from off to on, or run.  The device that makes this happen is the rectangular relay of gray that is plugged in to the second yellow position on the bottom of the image.  We don't need that function, but we can use that input to signal power on to our EV.  So, knowing where that relay is helpful, but knowing where the wires are is nicer for making a pretty modification that is neat and functional.

    This is an image of the underside of the fuse block in the engine compartment.  When you turn it over and see that there are about a hundred trillion wires you are going to want to take your football and go home, but the situation is not that bad.  Each color code means something, and performs a task for you in the EV world.  Here we show you the color combination of Black/Yellow and Blue/Green.  These are your "ignition on" control lines and will control your power contactor.  These little blue snap on splices are a joy.  Snap them on and they tap in to the line, the ends are already fitted to accept a quick connect, so we are talking really cool here, neat and functional.

    Another view of that same pair of control lines.  The quick connects are plugged in to those really neat blue crimps, and we have added another pair of crimps and quick connects.  The first set of crimps tell the contactor to fire so the truck will go, the second set of crimps activate the vacuum system to give you power assisted brakes.  This is a good approach unless your idea of a pleasant Sunday drive involves moments of sheer terror.

    This is the power assist brake contactor, located just ahead of the driver but in the engine compartment. 

    LionEV packs are custom built for each application.  The above is a typical pack.  They can be of any dimensions required to fit the application as long as the volume required to fit the KWh of the application is kept in mind.  Packs can even be round to fit in the spare tire wells of small cars.

    The rangers and our fire fighting ATV's both use the same armored packs.  The ATV because of its hazardous environment working forest fires, and the Ranger because the packs are slung below the bed where they could be hit by road debris.  The steel skin of the battery boxes offer quite a bit of protection, but the extra protection of this design is insurance against a really nasty road suprise.
    BMS duties are divided with some being within the packs, and some residing in the charger network.  This adds some protection since both would have to fail for your battery pack to be put at risk.
    These packs do not require external cooling mechanisms.  The shiny dots that you see on the near side of this photo are part of an internal radiator assembly that disipates the heat from the cells.
    These are the packs you will see operating the vehicles on the dyno later today.

    Everything is ready for the testing of the drive train to begin.  This test involves a static run of the motor to ensure that the adaptor plates are in line and that there is no drag or friction, and that nothing is off balance.  If this test if successful, then it is time to hit the road, or the dyno.

    Perfect!  Smooth, Quiet, no vibration.  Sounds like a high performance jet turbine.  The pictures on the final page of the DIY will be linked to videos of the vehicle testing.  We sincerely hope that you enjoyed this DIY series.  Thanks for joining us, and plug in America.

                                                                   On to the FINAL DIY page.